How to choose a good, natural moisturizer?

The question first is why we should use a moisturizer and do we really need it?

As I mentioned in a previous post before (Product review - Pond's dry skin cream), the hydratation of the skin depends on the work of the natural moisturizing factors (NMF- a natural mixture of amino acids, lactates, urea and electrolytes, which help the stratum corneum retain water) and how much water gets into the body (basically how much water you drink).

With creams we just get temporary solutions, so the best if we start to drink plenty of good quality water and as a supplement use a moisturizer cream. If you want your dehydrated/dry skin back to its healthy state, then you have to understand what caused it and what it needs. Your skin reflects your health.

If you only treat the skin - suppressing the symptoms - you can reach only a short-term successes.

When someone has a normal skin it means the epidermis contains 25% of water. When the skin is dehydrated or/and becuase of the aging, this value could drop under 10%.

About dehydrated/dry skin, you can read here.

But what a moisturizer does to the skin?

First let me explain what moisturizing means. Moisturing is when the cells' natural moisturizing factors (NMF) binds the water and they process it. Any substance that helps the work of the NMF, also contributes to the natural hydration.

So a good moisturizer support the work of NMF.

The emphasis is on the support the work of NMF and the and next question is related to this:

What makes a moisturizer good and effective?

A good moisturizer has essential fatty acids and high vitamin content of vegetable oils (St. John's Wort oil, rosehip oil, flax, grape seed, borage, avocado, sweet almond, apricot kernel, wheat germ, jojoba, hazelnut, macadamia, sesame, etc.). These are supporting the work of NMF.

The quality of the water-binder substances provide the true value of a moisturizer, because the water evaporates quickly, if there is nothing to bind it.

• A good face moisturizer contains natural ingredients
• It doesn't work instead of the skin, but supports, helps, complete, or normalize its functioning
• Enhancing the skin’s natural moisture retention mechanisms
• Activate your skin elasticity, while promoting hydration and relieving dryness

Should we use a night cream?

There are 2 opinions about it:

1. We should use a night cream, because it’s proven that the skin’s ability to absorb active ingredients peaks at night and the skin loses more essential moisture at night. This time the metabolic activity of the skin cells are the highest. (This means that your skin is twice as active and the cells are repairing themselves.) Studies show that the optimum time for the body to repair itself is between 11pm and 3am. (This is why is important to go to bed by the latest at 10pm.) Using night cream at this time when the metabolic activity is the highest, will help repair your skin as it absorbs the active restorative ingredients.

2. While you sleep your skin is actually hard at work regenerating itself, balancing oil production and expelling impurities. Regular application of night creams interferes with these essential tasks, and over time skin becomes less able to care for itself. Covering the skin with moisturizer 24 hours a day sends a signal to sebaceous glands to cut down on moisture production, resulting in even drier skin that becomes dependent on moisturizing products just to appear “normal.” (Dr. Hauschka)

I think it really depends on the individual. Do what is your skin's needs. If you feel you need an extra moisture boost, then use a night cream. If you feel your skin is just fine with a day cream, then you don't have to use a night cream.

Summary about a moisturizer:

The skin utilizes as much as it needs from the moisturizer on any other cream, the absorbed ingredients help the skin's functions, the rest are transported (into our body). This is why it's important what we use for our skin.

Chose always natural/organic products.

Sources:

Why you should use a night cream?